How to tile walls
You will need:
-
Spirit level
- Tape measure
- Chinagraph pencil
- Tile saw
- Waterproof adhesive/grout
- Sponge
- Squeegee
- Tile cutting jig
- Timber battens
- Masonry nails
- Hammer
- Plumb line
- Tile spacers
- Dry cloth
Tiling a wall yourself in your kitchen or bathroom couldn't be easier, and with the fantastic range of colourful and textured wall tiles now available, the only problem will be choosing the style of tile.
Time to complete job: This is an easy weekend job, including grouting and drying time.
Approximate budget: From £150.
Planning
You can find out how many tiles you need by measuring the length and width of the area to be tiled, multiplying the two numbers together and dividing this figure by the area of a single tile (e.g. a 10x10cm tile has an area of 100cm) to give the number of tiles you need. Allow an extra 10 percent for cutting and wastage.
For professional advice, consult the Tile Association.
-
Step 1: Making a tile guide
First make up a tile gauge from a piece of 25x50mm (1x2in) batten.
Lay the tiles and spacers along the edge of the wood and mark the positions of the tile joints on the timber. You can now hold this 'gauge' against the wall, upright and across the surface, to plan the tile positions.
Nail a timber batten as a guide along the bottom of the wall. Don't hammer the nails fully home - leave at least 25mm (1in) of the nail protruding so they can be removed easily. Check the batten is straight with a spirit level.
Hold a plumb line against the wall to mark the position of the left hand edge of the tile area. Now use the tile gauge to check where the last complete rows of tiles will fall. Adjust the position of the vertical plumb line to avoid any narrow slivers of tile at each end of the wall.
Nail a batten along the left hand plumb line as a guide. Ensure it's straight with a spirit level.
Tip: Lots of cut tiles around a window will make a wall look messy. If you have to tile around a window, use the tile gauge to try and make sure any cuts are made in less conspicuous areas. -
Step 2: Applying the adhesive
Work outwards and upwards from the corner formed by the two battens. Use a notched spreader to apply the adhesive or grout in even ribbons over about half a square metre of the wall.
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Step 3: Placing the tiles
Place the tiles onto the adhesive and use small sliding movements to position each tile in the correct position.
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Step 4: Tiling the wall
Continue tiling across the wall, working in half metre square sections so that the adhesive doesn't dry out before the tiles are fixed.
Use plastic spacers to keep the joints even and hold a spirit level across the tiles to check the surface is level.
Leave to dry. -
Step 5: Cutting tiles to fit
Now remove the timber battens and fill in the areas that need cut tiles. A tile cutting jig scores the tile and breaks it neatly to from straight cuts. Use a tile saw to form curved or shaped cuts. Hold the tile upright in a portable workbench to keep it steady as you cut.
Tip: If you plan to tackle more than one wall, it may be worth hiring or buying an electric tile cutter that uses a water-cooled diamond disk. -
Step 6: Grouting the joints
When all the tiles are fixed, wipe off any excess adhesive and leave to dry.
Grout the joints with a squeegee. -
Step 7: Finishing
Use a damp sponge to wipe off all the excess grout with a damp sponge.
Once the surface is dry, polish with a dry cloth.
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