How to install wood panelling

You will need:
- Pipe and cable detector
- Drill
- Masonry and wood bits
- Wall plugs and screws
- Mitre box
- Hand saw
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Spirit level
- Wood adhesive
- Hammer
- Nail punch
- 30mm (1.2in) panel pins
- Tongue and groove cladding
- 38x22mm (1.5x0.9in) battens
- L-shaped timber moulding
- Top cover piece
- Wood filler
- Try square
First Steps
As the new panels will cover the bottom of the wall, check there are no signs of damp or rot around the existing skirting board or floor area. Call in a professional if you can't cure the problem yourself.
Tip: The softwood tongue and groove boards should be left in the room for at least 24 hours so the timber can acclimatise to the moisture level.
Lay the boards flat on the floor with the polythene wrapping removed.
Safety
Make sure there are no live wires or pipes buried in the wall where you are going to fix the boards. Use a pipe and cable detector and mark these areas on the wall before starting work.
How To Panel Around Pipes and Sockets
If you have wall-mounted pipes to hide, make sure you use horizontal battens that are thick enough to position the wainscot boards over the top of the pipes. Any valves should be left uncovered - or make a small cover that can be unscrewed in an emergency.
Electrical sockets look neater if you re-fix them to the boards rather than cut around them. You many need to buy surface-mounted socket boxes to make the socket flush with the boards.
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Measuring and marking
The vertical tongue and groove boards are held on the wall by three horizontal battens set at the top, bottom and middle. This provides an air gap behind the boards to reduce the chances of condensation problems on the wall surface.
Use a spirit level and tape to mark the positions of the top, middle and bottom battens on the wall.
Tip: If the existing skirting board is in good condition, use this to attach the boards rather than a lower batten. -

Fixing the battens to the wall
Trim the battens to fit along the entire wall and fix with screws and wall plugs at 60cm (24in) intervals along each batten.
Fit the battens to all the walls you are going to panel before adding the vertical boards.
Tip: If you have very uneven walls, use packing pieces of hardboard or card between the shallow areas and the battens to give a firm, straight fixing for the boards. -

Fixing the first vertical board
Cut the vertical boards to the height of the top of the upper batten, minus 10mm (0.4in) to allow for any timber movement.
Place the first board against the wall corner and use a spirit level to check it is vertical.
Tip: Always place the first board so that the 'tongue' faces into the corner. -

Fitting the vertical boards
Use a hammer and panel pins to fix the boards to the battens.
Make sure you angle the panel pins through the groove and use a nail punch to sink the heads below the surface. This will hide all the fixings.
Work along the wall, lining up the tops of the cladding and checking the boards are vertical with a spirit level.
Tip: Press a small off-cut of tongue and groove board into the board edge and tap with a hammer to ensure the pieces are locked together. -

Finishing the top and bottom
When you reach the end of the wall, you may need to cut the last board lengthways to fit the remaining gap. Fix this piece with panel pins though the middle of the board.
Pin and glue a covering strip on to the tops of the boards and add new skirting board along the bottom edge to hide the 10mm (0.4in) expansion gap and form a neat edge.
Tip: Always leave a gap of at least 15cm (6in) between the last board and any heat source such as a boiler. You can add panelling up to the outer edge of a fire surround. -

Finishing
Finish off by gluing L-shaped timber mouldings over the internal and external corners.
Tip: A mitre box can be used to mitre the ends of the covering strip in the room corners.
Protect the wainscoting with a matt or satin paint or varnish.
Before painting, treat any knots in the boards with a coat of knotting compound. See Painting Interior Woodwork and Metal for more painting tips.
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