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Posts by mondaychild

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.34PM
Fri 25 Jul 2008

They should produce flowers and fruit without much effort on your part. water is needed in Spring and Summer but this year we have had plenty of rain. Just leave them in and hope for better next year. They should produce runners and these should be rooted ( press down on earth ) to plant out next year, perhaps giving a better plants.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.31PM
Fri 25 Jul 2008

This is odd. Have they enough water ? Are you providing long enough sticks up which they can grow, by twining ther tendrils round the sticks ?
AT 2 feet tall you shpuld be out of range of slug attack but check in darkness to see if anything has climbed to attack the leading shoot.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.28PM
Fri 25 Jul 2008

Indoors is much more drying than outdoors. Try more water next time. They also like light so do not put in dark corner.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.26PM
Fri 25 Jul 2008

The everlasting will produce much more stalk before flowering and then the flowers will be smaller and less glamorous than the decorative varieties. They are everlasting ( but watch out for slug attack when the shoots just appear ) and so you gain some and lose some. They may take a season to settle in, persevere and blooms will appear.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.42PM
Mon 21 Jul 2008

Big chunk then water to separate is good. If you just pull you will damage the roots too much and they will not re-start.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.00PM
Mon 14 Jul 2008

You have a powerful adversary. You will probably have to devastate everything and even then there will be lurking seeds. Try Roundup herbicide on a small patch and then plant new grass seeds about one week later.
Use fescue grass for quality.
Trial and error is what most gardening is about.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.47PM
Mon 14 Jul 2008

Can be planted out if you are careful and try to keep as much root as possible on each plant. They will need watering because this is the hot season and they could dry out because the roots will take time to establish their proper intimate contact with the soil.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.43PM
Mon 14 Jul 2008

Dig out lilac. Weed killer will affect host plant and you may not wish to lose that. Of course you will need to dig each year but be persistant.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.40PM
Mon 14 Jul 2008

Golf ball is good.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.32PM
Mon 14 Jul 2008

The ants will be there long after we have gone but they do not like water. If you are not on a water meter, pour lots of water on the mounds ( a bucket full each day ) and they will give up. Cold water will do, there is no need to use hot water. The water threatens to drown the eggs and the ants will seek drier places. If the lawn comes close to the house, start the water near the house, to drive the ants away, covering a strip about one metre wide to start. DO NOT drive them towards the house. After two weeks, stop the water and see if is being successful.
There are chemical sprays but they only deal with the ants you can see and spray. There is a poison Nippon that is in a sugar syrup. This is placed near the nest, the ants come and eat it and take the poison into the nest ( do not kill ants when they are taking the poison, it needs to get into the nest ).
You are in for the long haul but water will help you.
If the treatment works, please come back to the Message Board to tell others.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.26PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

perhaps she has a physical problem. find out if a local group scouts etc could offer free garden work and then talk to her and suggest that they could help.
There may not be an answer so buy fine mesh net to catch seeds

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.23PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

for three foot wall put a block on side for foundation, on some crushed rubble about 3 inch deep. Mortar can be one cement to eight sand, and this will do for the render. Curves are difficult, try staggered short straights

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.19PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

Raspberry canes ( cut down the canes from which you have picked the fruit; leave new green canes for next year ) and strawberry plants need little attention and give fresh fruit, if you can keep the birds away with nets.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.13PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

clivia grows from a bulb and the shoots will not root. When the plant is well established, it is possible to dig it up, divide the bulb and plant the two parts with their own share of the roots.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.10PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

Spread a net over the surface.
Sew lots and then sprinkle with some soil to cover some of the seeds.
Mix with soil and spread the soil

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 5.07PM
Wed 2 Jul 2008

They will flower next year. This year is a bit soon, they have spent their time establishing roots. keep the soil around them moist but not wet - water once a week if there is no rain. Although they were in boxes, they were probably dug up from their original site and put in the boxes for sale. This disturbs the roots.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.26PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

Flowers are usually more per plant. Are they kept moist. Can you transfer some to another container in which you have put new compost ( do this in November at end of season.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.22PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

Laurel and photinia are fairly bombproof, try them. Dig out to put good soil in to start them.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.20PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008


If it grows fast it is usually called a weed, the definition of which is any plant that is in the wrong place. Text description may solve this.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.18PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

magic balls
Seed should not be needed. Feed and water. The scarifying is a severe process and the lawn will usually look wrecked. It recovers.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.18PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

magic balls
Seed should not be needed. Feed and water. The scarifying is a severe process and the lawn will usually look wrecked. It recovers.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.15PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

All garden varieties should flower. Do you mean that the rhododendrons are 3 years old. If so they may still be establishing themselves. If they are old say 30 years, they may have drained the soil of nutrients and could benefit from fertiliser.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.13PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

If the soil is level under the clumps, just cut them back by hand to the soil level. The grass will regrow from the proper level. If the soil is higher in the clumps, you will have to cut round the clump, lift the grass with a fork, remove some soil and bang the grass down again. Then water well to keep roots supplied as they regrow down,

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.10PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

Cylinder is preferable because the cutting is between two metal edges. the grass should not be pulled at all. The flymo cuts by rapid side swipe and will tend to pull out grass that is not well rooted.

 
 

mondaychild

Posted 6.05PM
Mon 30 Jun 2008

Plant alternate photinia and laurel along north boundary as wind screen, half metre from edge and one metre apart. These will grow to give a good colour boundary.
leave lots of space for annual flowers, grown at home from a few seeds from a packet, in joghurt pots. Plant out when about 70 mm high.
Use old planks from building sites as paths. They will rot down over a few years and are more friendly to the ground than bricks or slabs.
Spelling mistake last post ----- wegelia is correct.

 
 

Posts by mondaychild

 
 
 
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