There's much talk about the danger of eating harmful mushrooms - as a rough guide, avoid any varieties you can't identify.

Most mushrooms these days are cultivated, but many varieties still have their own seasonality.

Mushroom picking and storing
If you are going on a mushroom hunt, it's best to go during a dry, warmish spell, a few days after rain. Mushrooms are made up of mainly water - so don't pick them wet, or chances are that they'll turn soggy before they reach the pan.

They should be stored in paper bags, in the fridge. Keeping mushrooms in plastic-wrapped tubs makes them sweat and deteriorate.

Discard any mushrooms with holes made by insects, and clean the caps with a damp cloth or soft brush. Rinsing clean with water makes them sodden - they'll only release all the water when you come to cook them.

Salting mushrooms before cooking draws out juices, it's best to season at the end of cooking. Fry sliced button mushrooms in batches over a relatively high heat - that way, they'll brown quickly without stewing in their own juices.

Dried mushrooms such as porcini need to be soaked in warm water for about 20 minutes before using. The soaking liquor is full of flavour and can be used in the same way as vegetable stock.

Different types...

Truffles
Sniffed out by hogs, truffles grow underground and can't be cultivated. Because of their exclusivity, they command a hefty price tag and are the ultimate in luxurious dining.

White truffle from Piedmont, in northern Italy is superior in flavour to black truffle. The white Alba variety has a subtle garlicky taste with hints of cheese. It's usually shaved into thin wafers and used as a garnish.

Black truffles, from Perigourd, France are noted for their rich cheese-like flavour - they work particularly well with foie gras and rich game dishes

If you're lucky enough to get hold of a truffle, store it in a deep tub of risotto rice, or keep it next to raw eggs, in their shell. That way, the rice, or eggs will absorb its aroma and develop a pleasing, truffle-flavoured taste.

They're beyond the reach of most of us, but truffle oil is an great substitute for the real thing. Simply sprinkle a few drops of oil into finished soups, risottos and stews before serving.

Cep mushrooms
Also known as cèpes in France and porcini in Italy, these mushrooms have a robust flavour and can be identified by their yellowish colour, fat spongy cap and broad stalk. Scrape away the fleshy underside before cooking because it tends to go limp while in the pan. They're best drizzled with olive oil and grilled, or flash-fried in butter with chopped garlic.

Chanterelle
Known as girolle in France, these tasty mushrooms are often sold fresh in markets, but can also be bought in their dried state. Bold in flavour, they have a curved 'trumpet-like' cap, fruity aroma and orange hue. They do have a firm texture and need a longer, gentler cooking than required for regular field mushrooms. Try serving them with eggs, or combining them in a creamy mixed mushroom casserole.

Field Mushrooms
From regular, mild-tasting, button and chestnut mushrooms, to the meatier flat cap and robustly-flavoured Portobello ones, there's really no end to their versatility. Flat mushrooms are especially good with steaks, and are often roasted whole.

Enoki mushrooms
Most often used in South East Asian cooking, these small mushrooms are sold in clumps and are often used to fill dim sum or used as a garnish. They should be cut free from the base and separated out either into single stems or bunches. They're one of the few varieties that should be stored wrapped in cling film and chilled because they quickly discolour.

Morel
Pricey, but delicious, morels are in season during spring, but can be bought dried throughout the year. They're noted for their intense smoky flavour - a few morels are all you need to flavour a risotto or sauce. To use, trim off any woody stems and dust away sandy granules that may cling to the inside of the caps.

Shiitake mushrooms
Bought fresh or dried, these mushrooms have a flattish cap with plenty of gills, and have a distinctive smoky flavour and firm texture. They're usually stir-fried whole. It's best to remove the tough stems before using - which can be used to flavour soups.

Oyster mushrooms
Can be eaten raw, they have a delicate, slightly peppery taste and creamy texture. It's best to buy smaller mushrooms rather than the larger ones, which have a tendency to be watery. It's shaped a bit like a fan with a stubby stem lying to one side. Cook them whole or tear into strips. In addition to being used in South East Asian dishes, they're good in pastas and risottos.

In the kitchen
Because they have a distinctive, often delicate flavour, simple cooking methods are often the most memorable. Fried in a nut of butter with a touch of garlic and maybe a dollop of cream, mushrooms are transformed into a snappy snack and are great served with toast.

Fried mushrooms work especially well with herbs such as chopped parsley, oregano and even shredded sage leaves. Try adding a dash of lemon juice to enhance their natural flavour.

They also make an impressive team with shallots, crème fraiche, Madeira, garlic and white wine.

Whole flat cap mushrooms are excellent stuffed and baked.

Cultivated varieties are great in salads - try combining them with spinach leaves, peppers and bacon. Cheese with mushrooms is another classic combo which never fails to please.

Steeped raw mushrooms in herby vinaigrette make a tasteful accompaniment to crusty French bread.

If truffles are beyond your budget (and they are for most people!), pick up a bottle of truffle oil, and add a few drops to prepared mushroom dishes before serving.

Did you know...
The price of white truffles is pegged at a couple of hundred quid for a kilo - they're big business!

Try some of these tempting mushroom recipes this autumn:
Mushrooms on Toast from Arthur Potts Dawson
Mushrooms with Coriander and Bay from Tamasin Day Lewis
Black Pudding with Mushrooms and Cheese from James Martin
Braised Dried Chinese Mushrooms from Kylie Kwong
Gorgonzola Stuffed Mushrooms from Gino D’Acampo *Video Recipe