
You will need:
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New socket
- Gloves
- Goggles
- Bolster chisel
- Pencil
- Spirit level
- Hammer drill
- Masonry bit
- Electrical screwdrivers
- Pliers
- Plaster filler
- Cable clips
- Hammer
First steps
Replacing singles with doubles can be done to all the sockets if they are on a ring circuit. If a socket has only wire leading into it, it is a spur and can be replaced with a double as long as this is the only socket on the spur.
You can choose from either surface-mounted or flush-mounted sockets. Flush mounted is the neatest option as only the thin faceplate protrudes from the wall. If you have plasterboard walls, it's better to use flush-mounted sockets as these can be fixed securely to the plasterboard.
Surface-mounted are easier to install into a solid brickwork wall as there is less drilling needed for fixing, and are fine for garages or utility rooms.
Tip: One way of saving money is to ask an electrician to install the cabling, ready for you to fit the sockets. For more information, contact the Electrical Contractors Association.
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Step 1: Positioning the back box
Once you have decided on the position of the new socket, you will need to cut away the plaster and fit the back box (the plastic or metal container that holds the face plate to the wall).
Hold the back box against the wall and draw around it. Draw lines for the cable channel directly down to floor level so the cable can run to the back box.
Remove the plaster within the pencil lines with a bolster chisel and club hammer.
Tip: Check the box is level by holding a spirit level across the top. -

Step 2: Drilling the fixing holes
To make a recess deep enough for the back box, fit a masonry bit at least 10mm (0.4in) in diameter into your drill and switch it to hammer action.
Make rows of holes across the exposed brickwork. This makes it easier to chop out the waste brickwork with a cold chisel.
Test the back box fits into the hole and chop out more brick if necessary.
Mark through the back of the box and drill and plug the fixing holes. -

Step 3: Fitting the cable
Important: Before touching the existing wiring, always turn off the power supply.
The back box will have blanked off holes on each side for the cable to enter. Knock out the correct hole and fit a rubber grommet so that the edges do not cut into the cable. Push the cable through the hole and screw the back box into its recess. Use cable clips to hold the cable in the channel.
You can use plaster filler to fill any gaps around the box and to cover the cable.
Tip: If you are breaking into a ring circuit, feed a loop of cable into the back box and cut through to reveal the wires. Now you can twist together each matching set of wires (e.g. blue and blue). Connect up the joined wires as described for a single cable. -

Step 4: Connecting the wires
Strip off the cable sheathing and connect the wires to the terminals on the back of the front plate. The brown wire connects to the Live, the blue wire to Neutral and the bare earth wire to the Earth terminal.
Tip: Push some green and yellow sheathing over the bare Earth so that it is obvious which wire it is. -

Step 5: Finishing
Screw the face plate to the back box and turn on the power supply. Test the socket works by plugging in a lamp.
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Jackie - UKTV Says:
Posted on 28 of October 2008
Thanks for your comment Jim, we've updated our feature.
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jimH51446 Says:
Posted on 15 of October 2008
As an electrician I feel I need to point out to you that the colour codes for fixed wiring has changed,and must upgrade your web site!












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