How to insulate your loft
You will need:
-
Fibre insulation
- Pipe insulation
- Tape measure
- Kitchen knife
- Respirator mask
- Rubber gloves
- Overalls
- Bin liner
- Hammer
- Panel pins
- String
- Builder's tape
- Chipboard panels
First steps
Before you start work, use a torch to check that all the exposed woodwork looks in good condition. Check especially for any dampness or small holes that indicate woodworm. Carry out any repair work or call in a professional.
Insulation is sold in various thicknesses but you should have a minimum of 200mm (8in) over all the roof space. Measure the distance between your ceiling joists. Mineral-fibre is usually sold in 5-8m (5.5-9yds) lengths, 370mm (15in) wide to fit the standard spacing.
Insulation fibres can irritate the skin so always wear a dusk mask, gloves and overalls to lay the new insulation.
Tip: Take off your watch to avoid it catching on the mineral fibres.
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Step 1: Laying the insulation
Put down some panels of chipboard so that you can work across the loft without accidentally treading on the ceiling below. Lift all the insulation materials into the loft and unroll the first length so that it fits between the ceiling joists.
Start at one end of the roof space and work across, laying each roll of insulation into the spaces between the joists. Leave a small 25mm (1in) gap between the end of the rolls and the eaves to allow air to circulate.
Tip: The loft hatch is often a very cold spot as warm air is drawn up into the loft space. Cut some insulation and fit this over the back of the loft door. Keep it tidy by putting the roll in a bin liner and then attach it with string and panel pins or tape. -
Step 2: Using loose-fill
Alternatively, if your loft has very uneven spacing or lots of cross rails, use insulation granules which can be poured into any shaped space between the joists.
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Step 3: Dealing with obstacles
If you need to trim the rolls to fit around obstacles, use a craft knife or sharp kitchen knife. Butt the ends of rolls together.
Tip: Do not lay insulation over any recessed ceiling lights. Lift any electrical wiring to lay on top of the insulation to prevent the wire overheating. -
Step 4: Cold water tank
The area under the cold water tank should be left uninsulated so that warm air rising from the rooms below will prevent the water or pipes freezing.
The tank itself should be wrapped with a layer of the insulation. You can buy a water tank 'jacket' or make your own by taping a length of insulation material around and over the top of the tank. -
Step 5: Insulating water pipes
Protect exposed water pipes with foam tubular pipe insulation.
The tubes have a ready-cut split along their length and can be pushed onto the pipes and trimmed with a knife to fit around bends.
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