20th Century
Reporting from Iraq

Reporting from Iraq

Life for journalists reporting from Iraq during the early days of the Iraq conflict was certainly tough, with a few bizarre moments. Read on to find out about life from one journalist on assignment in Baghdad.

Testing times
Iraq required visiting journalists to take an AIDS test. Some reporters worried about dirty needles and tried to bribe their way out of the test. However, most had to comply. Orderlies who took the blood were sometimes careless and an angry bruise on your arm marked you as a guest of Iraq for weeks.

Anyone for tennis?
Iraq's current foreign minister, the urbane Naji Sabri al-Hadithi, was under-secretary at the Ministry of Information during the early 1990s. Journalists were asked to play tennis with Mr Sabri, who, as a former Iraqi envoy iin the UK, was keen for London gossip. Editors at home warned staff not to play too well, for fear of offending this influential official.

Desert ice
The only way into Baghdad was a drive from Jordan of up to 15 hours. Bandits operated on the lonely highway but the greatest danger was actually your driver falling asleep at the wheel. Some drivers tied ice packs on their heads to keep them awake.

Losing face
After the 1991 Gulf War, authorities laid a mosaic portrait of George Bush Senior in the doorway of Baghdad's al-Rasheed Hotel, where journalists stayed. Visitors would gleefully trudge Baghdad dust over Bush's tired visage
on their way into the building.

Learned drivers
A Baghdad taxi ride could be an erudite experience. Middle class incomes evaporated after the 1991 Gulf War, when the Iraqi Dinar collapsed. Professors, psychologists and lawyers ended up driving taxis, mournfully debating geopolitics and the merits of Shakespeare with their Western passengers.

Magic moment
Iraqi TV transported you to a parallel universe. Despite the Iraqi government's anti-British stance, cheesy Brit variety acts were incredibly popular. Watching ancient re-runs of magician Paul Daniels (dubbed into Arabic, of course) was a stern test of your grip on reality.

Bearing gifts
Government officials asked journalists to bring them presents in exchange for oiling the machinery of Iraqi bureaucracy. Tins of Quality Street, Harrods ties and Tatler magazines were popular among officials. But, tellingly, the 'gift' most often requested was medicine, because supplies were so scarce.
 
 
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