Paving + Decking
Repairing Paths, Drives and Steps
Problems occur with paths, drives and steps either because of poor construction or accidental damage. Paths and drives can develop cracks or sunken areas and these can be unsightly or an annoyance when water collects. Trip hazards or damaged steps are dangerous and need prompt repair.
Time to complete job: Variable
Approximate budget: Less than £20
You may need:
- Sand
- Cement
- Trowel
- Chisel
- Hammer
- Wooden board
- Bricks
- Safety glasses
- PVA adhesive
- Concrete trowel or float
- Crowbar
- Wooden spacers
- Club hammer
- Bitumen adhesive
- New asphalt
Tip: If the cause of damage is sunken foundations, excavate the area completely and add a well consolidated 50 mm (2") layer of hardcore for paths (100 mm (4") for drives). For a slab path, then add 50 mm (2") of sharp sand, firmed and levelled, before laying slabs.
For more practical advice and inspiration on improving the great outdoors see Stylish Outdoor Living, Perk Up Your Patio, Your Own Space, Laying a Patio and Hot Patio Heaters.
For more information before you start, see the Marshalls website which is packed with tips and advice on revamping your garden. And don't forget to try the Patio Calculator if you're thinking about creating a patio or extending the one you've got!
Step 1: Repairing holes in concrete paths and drives
A depression or hole should be repaired by chiselling out the damaged area down to 12 mm - 25 mm (1\2" - 1"). Clean out loose material and shape the edges of the hole inwards to give the repair a better grip.Paint the surface with dilute PVA.
Step 2: Filling holes in concrete paths and drives
Make a dryish mix of 1:3 sand:cement plus PVA and fill the hole, smoothing the surface.When mending broken edges, use the same technique but use a wooden board and bricks to support the concrete edge.
Cover with plastic sheeting weighed down with bricks to ensure the area stays moist until the concrete is cured. This can take a few days.
Cracks can be caused by uneven settlement and if severe the whole area may need relaying on a proper foundation.
A single crack which is not increasing can be repaired using the technique described above, but first open up the crack with a chisel, undercutting the edges, to at least 12 mm (1/2") deep.
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