Care Advice
Treating and Staining External Wood

Treating and Staining External Wood

Most wood used in the garden is softwood - it is much cheaper to buy than hardwood. But unlike hardwood, which is naturally resistant to rot, softwood rots easily when wet, so you need to take action to ensure it is preserved. Ideally, all softwoods used would be pressure treated, forcing preservative into the grain. But if not, you will need to treat it yourself.

Treating wood
Wood preservative comes in two types: water-based and oil- or spirit-based.
Oil/spirit-based preservatives are more readily absorbed into wood but will damage plants until they have dried. Water-based preservatives tend not to soak as well so need renewing more often.

Creosote was once widely used - sometimes mixed with old engine oil, a highly environmentally polluting substance. Creosote is not as good as other preservatives and also gives off poisonous fumes, so it's definitely a poor substitute and should be avoided.

New timber
New timber should be soaked before use by immersing overnight. Weatherboard can be soaked in a temporary bath made by laying bricks into an oblong shape, covering them with a polythene sheet and pouring preservative into the centre. The panels can then be completely immersed.

If immersion is not possible, choose a warm day when the wood is thoroughly dry and brush the preservative on, starting at the bottom of vertical surfaces and working upwards.

New posts should stand in a pot full of preservative to soak for at least 24 hours before inserting in the ground.

Tip: Wear gloves and take care not to splash your face when applying the preservative. Solvents used in spirit-based preservatives are inflammable, so take care!
 
 

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