Helpful Tools
Gary Rhodes' two apprentice chefs had never done anything like this before. We asked them to write down their thoughts and feelings on the people and places they saw on their amazing journey
Here you can read about what they felt from day to day along the way. From pre-trip nerves, to what it was like to cook with some of China's greatest chefs. And finally preparing a six course banquet for forty people. This was a culinary learning curve which tested them to their very limits.
Pre-trip preparations
TeresaWatch Teresa's pre-trip expectations
I had only been to China once before, a couple of years ago, when I worked as a volunteer in a Panda sanctuary in Wolong. It was in a very remote place so I didn’t really have a chance to explore much of the country. This was a completely new experience for me and I deliberately did not do any research on China before hand as I wanted to experience this journey with fresh eyes.
Before we flew out, there was some pre-trip training to be done to get me used to being in front of the camera. First I was filmed at my local Chinese supermarket buying some ingredients. All the shop assistants were chatting amongst themselves, probably wondering who I was. Then I had to make a traditional pork soup with salty duck egg and Chinese vegetables in front of the camera. I felt embarrassed at first, but soon got the hang of it. Roll on China!
Watch Melissa's pre-trip expectations
I am obsessed with all things food related, and love entertaining. Having spent a year in Beijing, I fell in love with Chinese cuisine. Food I ate afterwards just didn’t compare.
When I heard Gary Rhodes was looking for two sous chefs ‘with a passion for cooking and for China’, to accompany him on a Chinese culinary trip, I had to apply. It seemed a distant fantasy but the dream actually became a reality!
Apprehension, panic and excitement grew as our trip approached. As I had never filmed for TV, I didn’t know what to expect. However I was determined to make the most of everything planned and try as many different foods as possible. It dawned on me that the next four weeks could be the best of my life so far, and I couldn’t wait to experience it all.
Hong Kong
TeresaFirst stop was Hong Kong and a meeting with local food writer, Reggie. I tried his mum’s homemade soup which was delicious. That’s a big compliment considering I find my mum’s soup to be the best.
After Reggie’s, I went for some snake soup at Shia Wong Hip. I have tried it before so the thought didn’t bother me. Hats off to Gary though, because he tasted snake bile. He even drank the pure version, with water rather than rice wine!
I was then invited to watch how they cook suckling pig in the Intercontinental hotel. How mad was that! These Chefs have trained for five years to perfect roasting these piglets over open fire pit. The skin was so thin and crispy. I loved the kitchen and feel of the place. Chefs were busily preparing food over these huge woks - it made me realise how much I miss the buzz of the kitchen.
One thing I found myself doing was really paying attention to how the table was presented as I wanted everything to be spotless. I hadn’t realised I had it in me to be so precise.
Hong Kong! Unbelievable! I was thrown into filming, which was probably a good thing as it gave me no time to get nervous. The first shoot at a soy factory wasn’t the easiest to start with as it was so loud, but I soon forgot that the camera was there. I discovered the process and even got to taste test. I had to look out for strange flavours, which was difficult but apparently I did well.
The hustle and bustle of the city hit me at Mongkok wet market, filled with all kinds of fresh produce. I was shocked to see shark’s fin, live chickens to be slaughtered and a line up of still-moving fish heads.
Before I met Gary Rhodes I was nervous, but he was friendly and eager for us to get involved, so I had nothing to worry about. We filmed in the Presidential Suite on top of our hotel, which had the most amazing views of Hong Kong Island. I had to pinch myself.
We were invited for a meal at Alvin’s, one of our mentor chefs. We dined on an eight-course fusion meal including lobster tails, caviar, fois gras and free-flowing champagne. Ah, fabulous!
Xiamen
TeresaAfter a four-hour flight to Xiamen and another hour car ride to the Marco Polo hotel I was exhausted. I had a quick shower, a bite to eat and then headed off to a Hakka village, where we stayed the night in a traditional roundhouse.
I woke up at 6am with the sound of chickens and people chattering, getting on with their daily chores. The sound, the smell and the feel of the place made me feel like a kid again. Standing outside I realised what an amazing structure a roundhouse is - perfectly formed and functional. You could see every nook and cranny which all had their purpose.
Chris, our cameraman, noted how lush the vegetables from the garden were. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that the chef, Mr Su, used diluted human urine to fertilise them. He seemed to be enjoying them far too much. And after all we were supposed to eat like the locals.
The next day, back at Marco Polo Hotel, Chef Tenric worked with Gary on Fujian cooking style. The first dish, Minnan Spring Roll was a beautiful mixture of meat and vegetable, stir-fried and then wrapped with a very thin pancake. Frying the pork belly until crispy before adding the other ingredients was ingenious and I knew this dish had the potential of a great Spring Roll. It was perfect.
Xiamen, in the south east of China, had a very different feel from Hong Kong. Hong Kong was bustling and cosmopolitan, whereas Xiamen had a distinct Chinese feel to it.
It felt wonderful to be in the heart of China, surrounded by Mandarin speakers. It had been a while since I spoke it last so at first I was quite disheartened at my poor attempt. Thankfully it slowly came back and I was able to have conversations with others in Chinese, which I couldn’t do in Hong Kong.
I also visited Gulangyu Island. On arriving I was bombarded by Chinese tourists who wanted to take a photo with me. It appears a pale blonde English girl is quite a phenomenon in these parts.
All the Chinese tourist groups could be recognised by their matching caps, flags or…devil horns! And they went mad for the dried fish and meat, which were…erm…dry and chewy. Certainly not my favourite food so far. On the other hand, the fish balls, which Chef Du made, surprised me and were delicious. I’ll definitely be looking for those in the Chinese supermarkets back home.
Hangzhou
TeresaWe landed into Hangzhou Airport at midday, and I was amazed to see how lush and beautiful it was.
In the evening I met up with Taylor Jin, a local guide who was going to show me the best street food between Hefang Street and Gou Yin Lane. Street food is always exciting, and I knew there would be some very interesting dishes to sample. What I wasn’t expecting was the three head stew. It was made from the heads of a duck, a rabbit and a fish. I used to have a rabbit as a pet, so eating the head of one was out of the question. I did eat the duck’s head though, but Taylor told me I was supposed to suck out the brains! I put my foot down firmly and said NO! There’s only so much my stomach can take and I certainly had no intention of being ill.
During the trip it occurred to me that all the chefs have a gentleness, a quiet strength, which is very different to the TV chefs in the UK. It was very refreshing.
Hangzhou, our next stop, was beautiful with a huge lake surrounded by lush greenery. I was in awe at the places I visited including the Dragon Well tea plantations and aquaculture at Zhuji. The people were so friendly and welcoming, and I was also able to help with some of the cooking, which was very rustic but delicious.
I visited a snack street with lots of weird and interesting foods to try; two being duck and rabbit heads! I plucked up the courage to taste them both and, actually, they weren’t so bad.
We had lunch with Professor Shao at a fish farm, which lasted about two hours and was so much fun, a real highlight. Different fish dishes continued to appear, until we had almost twenty on the table. They included turtle, which I was encouraged to eat because it was supposed to be good for my skin. Chinese food is always good for something.
Then, they started initiating toasts in which we had to down our small glasses of beer. When they brought in what looked like a pot of tea we were all relieved, until we discovered it was their homemade alcohol that was about 50% proof.
Before we knew it, we all had full glasses in front of us and were once again involved in the downing ritual. Well it would just have been rude not to. Gan Bei!
Shanghai
TeresaWhat an amazing place! It had the buzz of Hong Kong combined with a beautiful old Colonial feel. The views along the Bund were quite spectacular, and the high rise buildings were so stylish. The whole place took my breath away.
A ten minute cab ride away from the Bund and I saw a very different take on Shanghai. Local markets sold fresh ingredients by the roadside. Old people smoked long pipes with their buddies and local restaurants yelled at each other across the street. I felt surprisingly comfortable amongst all the chaos.
OK, I have a confession to make. Most of the meals I ate were sandwiches, chips and salad. Why? I can’t honestly tell you. Perhaps after you have been looking at Chinese food for ten hours a day, the last thing you want to do is to eat it. I never thought I’d say this, but those burgers and pizzas in the evenings tasted good!
Shanghai is an amazing city, so cosmopolitan and trendy. My best friend from University lives here, so I was able to meet up with her. She took me to a few of Shanghai’s top spots.
The weather has been gorgeous and once again the location we were filming in was just spectacular. This time we were overlooking the Bund with Shanghai’s iconic TV tower in the background. I really enjoyed the dishes, some of the best we’ve had so far. Chef Jack Aw Yong was brilliant and I couldn’t stop eating the Shanghainese prawns he was cooking up.
Unfortunately, Teresa became ill, which was quite worrying and really disappointing for her. I couldn’t have asked for a better fellow sous chef on this journey, so I hoped she would recover soon. We just managed to finish filming before the sun set. It reminded us how filming is not always glamorous and easy. But for me, everyday is still exciting.
Beijing
TeresaMy day in Beijing started with cooking lesson from chef Chen Xiaonan at The Hutong. He cooked up Northern cuisine which is heavily influenced by the large Muslim community who consume mainly beef and lamb (whereas, in most of China, pork is the predominate choice of meat). It was the first time I’d tasted lamb on the trip and it did not disappoint. The dipping sauce was quite remarkable - it would make a great alternative to mint sauce.
That evening I went to night market at Whangfujing and Long Fusi Street. The whole street was heaving with people. The food wasn’t bad but the unusual concoctions surprised me. Xiaonan wanted me to try deep fried worms which I was willing to do until I saw her bite into one and a white marshmallow substance came gushing out… eeek!
The next morning was an early start at the Forbidden City. I think we must have been one of the first people there which gave it a rather eerie feel. Both Gary and I were taking pictures like there was no tomorrow. It was absolutely huge and gave you the feeling of “keep out” which was probably part of the design. Of course it had to be red (meaning prosperity in Chinese).
The final place I visited in Beijing was The Great Wall of China. The scale and the engineering completely overwhelmed me. In the past I have seen documentaries about it. Every step I took I was aware of the suffering the labourers endured during the construction and it touched me deeply.
It felt really weird to be back in Beijing after two years. Everything looked different, mainly because of the sheer amount of new buildings. Everything soon became familiar though. I loved making dumplings, one of my favourite Beijing foods.
I visited nine Gates Street Food where I tried two things I normally would never try: tripe and soya bean juice. Neither sounded particularly appealing but I was surprised at how I enjoyed them. The juice was sour but warming and I could just imagine drinking it in the bitter Beijing winter. The tripe was tasty too, though this could have been due to the peanut sauce I slathered over it.
Gary had a lesson on how to hand pull noodles. It looked difficult and we were very doubtful whether he could do it, but he managed it! It reminded me of just how skilful Gary is as he continually makes tricky things look simple.
Thankfully Teresa was feeling much better and I was determined to get out and about to show her some of the sights. We visited a few of my old haunts on Bar Street (notorious to all expats in Beijing). And just when I thought I wasn’t going to find my favourite street snack we found a stall selling them - pancakes filled with spring onion, coriander, sauce and fried dough. Yummy
Chengdu
TeresaLiu, our local guide took us to the largest chilli bean paste factories in the area. I was astounded to see all this paste, stored in these vast concrete tubs being dried out in the sun, with no cover for three months.
I actually stayed in this area nearly two years ago when I worked as a volunteer at the Panda Sanctuary in Wolong. I remembered thinking then that every dish was very chilli hot and my memory has served me well.
After our little trip to the factory, we went to a beautiful, traditional town called Huanglongxi. I was there to sample one of the most popular street foods, mapo dofu. It is made from mince meat with tofu cooked in chilli bean sauce.
The chilli came at me from all angles, and then the Sichuan peppers numbed the tongue. I felt as if I just had an injection from the dentist!
We are now towards the end of our trip and I’m already beginning to feel sad. This trip has been truly memorable for me and I have met some wonderful people. I sincerely hope we will all keep in touch.
I feel so privileged to have visited a Buddhist monastery in Chengdu and to have helped cook with a monk. It was fascinating as he was cooking vegetarian food that imitates meat. In this case, it was mashed potato in the form of fish. It sounded very odd and was a little complicated to make but tasted good. I wasn’t converted to vegetarianism though.
Before arriving in Chengdu, I’d heard all about the Sichuan hotpot, so it was with trepidation and intrigue that I went to have it in a popular, bustling restaurant. It was as hot and spicy as I had imagined, but I loved it. The food was delicious, the atmosphere was buzzing and all in all it was a great culinary experience.
I was very excited about the dishes we were making in Chengdu as the braised aubergines and the twice-cooked pork are two of my favourite Chinese dishes. It has been my ambition to be able to cook these and finally I was going to be able to. They tasted just as good as I remembered.
Guilin
TeresaI was overwhelmed by the beautiful scenery of vast paddy fields and karst hills. We’d been to many cities on this trip so I was really looking forward to visiting the country and experiencing the rural way of life. I wasn’t disappointed.
We drove four hours on very rickety roads to reach the village of Dazhai, situated amongst the Longsheng rice terraces. The journey was definitely worth it. On arrival, we were swarmed by women from the Yao ethnic minority, instantly recognisable by their short height and fancy clothing. Their simplistic way of life was humbling and I was very honoured to be invited into their homes and cooked for.
When I filmed my final piece in front of camera I was so sad the adventure was coming to an end. I loved waking up everyday and knowing that I was going to do something, meet someone and, most importantly, taste something that was new and exciting. Fortunately, it was not quite over yet as I still had the banquet to look forward to
Our last destination, and what a place to end our journey. There were these spectacular limestone formations stretched as far as the eye could see. The darkened sky added a mystery to the place.
In the evening, Gary and I were shown Cormorant Fishing, which I was rather excited about. I was lucky enough to have one of these amazing birds on my arm. They are heavier than you think. You could see the relationship between the fisherman and his birds -it was like one big happy family.
The next day, we travelled for nearly three hours to Dazhai Village. On the way we saw some wonderful rice terraces. We were briefed before cooking that we would be helping with the slaughter and cooking of the chicken. Actually, I didn’t have a problem with it. I think that it was because I could see the chickens, running around freely, having a good life.
The village was absolutely stunning, and the rice terraces looked like a dream. I was fascinated by how straight the planting of the rice was, though they have had generations of practice.
We finished around 7pm and despite the exhaustion, we were all geared up for the end of filming party which took place that night. The mood was fun and lasted till the early morning, but hey that’s to be expected!
The day of the banquet
TeresaThe day of the six course banquet that Gary was putting on for forty people started in a pretty tense way. Gary was focussed and firing on all cylinders and I was having trouble keeping up with him. I loved the buzz and the adrenaline of the preparation.
By 1pm, the guests started to arrive; Gary had a shock when Ken Hom came into the kitchen. He wasn’t expecting him and it was a really funny moment.
The banquet went without a hitch. I really enjoyed plating up and serving the guests and I chatted away to them as I did. And my favourite dish of the banquet? The steamed sea bass. Gary’s twist of serving it with mashed potato was genius. The taste really suited the Chinese palate and everyone I spoke to afterwards said how much they loved it.
After all six courses were served Gary went outside to thank all the guests. I really struggled to hold back the tears. Poor Gary probably wondered what was wrong with me and why I was blinking so much!
The banquet was a great opportunity to see everyone again and reminisce about all of our experiences together in China.
It was also an incredible challenge, especially for me as I have never worked in a professional kitchen. Although I love cooking for friends and family, nothing prepared me for the pressure and exhilaration I felt cooking alongside Gary Rhodes. And as if I wasn’t nervous enough, I was given the job of cooking my favourite dish: braised aubergines in chilli sauce. I was scared but excited and under Gary’s guidance and watchful eye, the dish was a success.
To add to the excitement (and pressure) there was a special guest - one of the most renowned of Chinese chefs, Ken Hom. All the guests, including my parents and twin sister, enjoyed the banquet and I felt very proud.
The only downside of the whole day was that we couldn’t be on the other side of the kitchen at the same time, eating the delicious food. I’ll have to get back in my kitchen at home and recreate it for myself.
Final thoughts
TeresaTo be chosen as one of the sous chefs for Rhodes Across China was a huge opportunity for me. I have never done anything like this before and knew it was just the beginning.
I met some wonderful people and have found their kindness and generosity touching and profound. I want to continue to explore traditional cooking in every possible way, whether it is with a top chef, or with ordinary people, learning their family recipes.
China can be quite a challenging country. But once you have immersed yourself in its culture and everything it has to offer, you cannot help but be impressed and overwhelmed by the generosity of its people, the beauty of the landscape and the diversity of the delicious food.
As soon as I arrived back in England, I went to the Chinese supermarket and cooked a Chinese feast for my family. They loved it, and I was amazed at how similar the dishes tasted to the ones we had cooked in China.
I now crave Chinese food virtually every day, but no longer have to suffer from withdrawal symptoms as I can now recreate the dishes at home.
One of the reasons I had such a wonderful time was due to the fact that the team worked so well together and bonded by creating sincere friendships. To be given the opportunity to work with Gary Rhodes and travelling to China has been fantastic. I think the word I’ve used most over the last couple of months has been “WOW!” A dream come true and an experience I will remember and draw upon for years to come.










Comments
You need to be logged in to leave a comment
Register
Latest Comment
Can someone please tell me the name of the small private restaurant Gary & the team visited? It was the one where the menu hadn't changed in over 40 years and has been visited by famous dignitries from various countries. Thanks, Mark