Best-ever mashed potato

Method

1. Rinse the potatoes, put them in a large pan of cold water and bring up to the boil. Salt generously and partially cover with a lid. Simmer until the potatoes are tender to the point of a knife, then drain them.

2. Pull off the skins - they should peel away easily. You can wear rubber gloves if you like, or struggle with an oven glove. I hold them in my hands as best I can and tell myself a little pain is good for me.

3. Throw the hot, peeled potatoes back into the pan and return them to the heat. Hold them briefly over the heat to dry off completely and become even fluffier. Mash them with the butter using a metal potato masher. There should be no lumps.

4. Pour in the milk, which should be hot rather than boiling, and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon or Kenwood beater till it is fluffy and light. You might want to add more salt. One must work quickly if the mash is to be hot. And it must be hot, and buttery, gloriously buttery.