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The deli boom offers us a rainbow-coloured, global pick 'n' mix culinary culture. We can taste the world, through an unprecedented choice of Mexican, Mediterranean, Indian and Asian food, not to mention the pick of the gastronomic crop from our own shores.

Deli food covers all bases, but sometimes it's easy to feel as if you're drowning in a sea of chutney, fancy biscuit tins and obscure olive oils. Why do some delis simply do it better than others? A good start is to check if the deli is a member of the Guild of Fine Food Retailers, whose cause is to champion both the independent speciality retailer and producers of fine food. The relationship is important because both are two sides of the same coin, and because most deli shoppers want to be able to buy items that are exclusive to the independent sector, that can't be found in the supermarkets (such as many of the Great Taste Award winners, the Oscars of the artisan producer world). Small delis might not always be able to win on price, but they can score on quality, provenance, exclusivity and the enthusiasm and knowledge of their staff.

The deli of today is an Aladdin's cave of delights; at last, they've put the deli back into delicious.