There are two secrets of success: one is cooking them for a very short time, the other is cooking them for a very long time. The middle road is the route to toughness.

Cut open the squid tubes, score them with a knife and char-grill or stir-fry briefly. Whether cooking Mediterranean-style or Chinese, chilli is a favourite accompaniment. Large squid can be stuffed and baked (a long-cooking method). Alternatively, slice into rings and coat with breadcrumbs or tempura batter before brief deep-frying. Thin slices of raw squid are used for sushi.

Fresh seafood is preferably eaten on the day of purchase. If necessary, place on a tray, wrap the container in cling film and store in the coldest part of the fridge for a couple of days.

Frozen squid should be kept in the freezer and consumed within three months of purchase.