There are several types of tuna, which vary substantially in quality. Best are the premium bluefin, which has rich red translucent flesh almost like beef when raw, and albacore, which is sometimes called 'the chicken of the sea' because of its pale meaty texture.
Unfortunately the bluefin - top choice for sushi - is in danger of being overfished. Lesser varieties are yellowfin and skipjack, the latter commonly used for canning. Prime tuna is used raw for sushi and carpaccio.
When cooking, fresh tuna is best grilled, barbecued or pan-fried. Serve it with rocket and tomato salad and balsamic dressing, with butter flavoured with herbs or pepper, or as part of a fresh tuna Nicoise salad.
The sturdy flesh makes good kebabs, which can be grilled or barbecued and served with guacamole.
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