The best ceramic dishes aren't stressed by extremes of heat and cold, which means they can be moved directly from freezer to oven to table. You can also put them under the grill to brown toppings, but, unlike enamelled cast-iron baking dishes, they can't be used directly on the hob.

Ceramic dishes conduct heat well and keep food hot once it is brought to the table. They generally come in bright Mediterranean colours, as well as cool sophisticated white.

More homely-looking are those made of glazed or unglazed brown earthenware. These are not quite so accommodating to extremes of temperature, but still stand up to the heat of a hot oven.

Or, go for classic, oval, white porcelain dishes. Altogether thinner and more elegant, these tend to be better for special occasions rather than homely mid-week suppers.

Use ceramic dishes for lasagne and moussaka, creamy vegetable gratins, custards and crumbles, or anything that needs leisurely uncovered baking.